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The lost El Greco

El Greco's Dormition of the Virgin

The island of Syros used to be mostly Catholic, a result of the Venetian expansion in the Aegean. During the Greek War of Independence (1821-1828), it was granted the protection of the Vatican and served as the landing point of refugees from Chios, Psara and Crete. The refugees founded the city of Ermoupolis, now the […]

A Modern Saint on Kimolos

The chapel of St Methodia on Kimolos

Unlike the Catholic church where saints are created at breakfast, lunch and supper, the Orthodox church doesn’t mess up its throngs with just anyone. I mean, if John Paul II had his way, the whole population of Poland would be beatified (with General Jaruzelski the patron saint of dictators). No, the Orthodox church  even used […]

Churches you shouldn’t miss in Thessaloniki

Churches you shouldn’t miss in Thessaloniki

Many forget that for centuries, while Athens had been reduced to a small hamlet under the Akropolis, Salonika was the biggest and most important city in the Byzantine (and later Ottoman) Empire after Constantinople/Istanbul. There is a continuity in the city’s history, which one can not find in Athens, whose sights flip-flop between ancient and […]