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Kolonaki, Athens

View from Lycabettus

[I wrote this for my Nat Geo Traveller article on Athens Neighbourhoods, but in the end only three of the four sections were published.] When the plans for the new capital were drawn in the 1830s, speculation about the position of the palace was rife and plots of land changed hands on hearsay and gossip. […]

Dead Russians: St Petersburg’s Czar Tombs

Church of the Blood, St Petersburg

Although you don’t often think of Russia as part of Europe, a walk in St Petersburg convinces you that, unlike Moscow, this is a city that looks more like Paris than Tehran. I mean look to your left! Then you go to the various cemeteries and you’re surprised at how many dead Russians you recognize. […]