When I found myself on a commission to Kardamyli, in the upper Mani peninsula in Greece, I had to do one thing: visit Bruce Chatwin’s grave. Well, not exactly grave. Bruce Chatwin almost became an Orthodox Christian on his deathbed, but still he was cremated according to Anglican custom. The Greek Orthodox church does not […]
The Nafplion komboloï museum
Madam Rallou is agitated. “A Greek komboloï is not a worry-bead” she insists. It’s a mistranslation. Write it down”. I’ve arrived in Nafplion, one-and-a-half hours out of Athens, below the ancient Mycenae and Argos. It’s December, there is an astonishing 20C outside and I’m visiting Greece’s first and only worry-bead, sorry komboloï, museum. Madam Rallou […]
Homage to Oscar Niemeyer
Oscar Niemeyer, the best known Brazilian architect, would have been 105 on December 15, 2012. He didn’t make it, dying on Dec 5th. It’s about the only deadline he didn’t meet. I have personally sought out most of his buildings in Rio, Brasília and elsewhere, and have been mightily impressed by his vision and style. […]