The shopping street of Graben with Christmas illuminations

When it comes to Christmas markets, there’s only German Mitteleuropa that avoids both the saccharine over-the-topness or the shopping pointlessness of their cheap imitations. And the undisputed queen of Adventm√§rkte is good old stolid Vienna. It’s only in December that the city truly comes to life, for this is when its palaces and baroque churches, […]